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One learned that the south Indian seasoning podi – a rough grind of fiery, coarsely crushed spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

You will need six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if bamboo, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook half an hour
Serves 2

14 ounces starchy potatoes, cut into 4cm chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, cut into 2cm cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
One teaspoon chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two cloves of garlic, prepared and minced
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
40ml neutral oil
1 red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then pour off the liquid and allow to air dry for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for five minutes, then drain and pat dry.

Pour the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then pound or blitz to a coarse mixture.

Transfer to a medium-large bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then lightly combine with the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Arrange the paneer, potatoes and onions on to the prepared skewers, then place on a tray and reserve for later – if you like, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Beat all the sauce elements in a container. Turn on the grill to its maximum heat, then bake the sticks for a short time on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a variable duration depending on the fierceness of your grill, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, sprinkled with a little more flaky salt and the sauce on the side for serving.